Anyone using this Depth of field App?

Camerashy

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Hello, can anyone give me a walk through on how to use this App? Can it be used with a large format camera ?
 

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May I suggest 3 other DOF calculators that I like, find way more intuitive and can be used for LF?
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I installed it on my FireHD (tweaked for Android Apps) it's not good.

Personally, I use instinct based on experience when it comes to DOF, plus realising Hyper focal distance is more important, and never focus at Infinity.

Ian
 
I installed it on my FireHD (tweaked for Android Apps) it's not good.

Personally, I use instinct based on experience when it comes to DOF, plus realising Hyper focal distance is more important, and never focus at Infinity.

Ian
I have made and glued mm scales on my 5x4 and I'm going to try the focus spread method of noting far/near and halving the difference. I'm just fishing to see if their is a popular depth of field app. that I'm missing out on.
 
I have made and glued mm scales on my 5x4 and I'm going to try the focus spread method of noting far/near and halving the difference. I'm just fishing to see if their is a popular depth of field app. that I'm missing out on.
I use a very similar method. I have a mm scale on the bed of my home-made camera and a reference point on the moving front standard. I focus on the far , then the near area that I want to be in focus, set the front standard to the halfway point,and make a mental note of the full extension. Then I use the following table, which is also written on my camera, to select lens aperture.
0.7mm of extension (or less) - f16
1.3mm of extension - f22
2.7mm of extension - f32
5.4mm of extension -f45
11mm of extension -f64

It seems to work with any focal length of lens.
 
The chart from aperture I have is
 

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For the rack and pinion focusing found on most cameras, I find it sufficient to grasp the knob firmly and focus on either near or far. Then, without changing the grip, re-focus on the other extreme. Again without changing the grip, use muscle memory to turn the knob to halfway between the two angular positions.
This needs a bit of experiment and practice to establish a modus operandi and the image should be brought to the best-looking state before using this as a last stage before exposing.
I don’t think this would work with the newer lead screw cameras.
 
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