First Images - I messed up

lensworx

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Hi all

I managed to get out for the first time today with the new camera.
Very much enjoyed the outing and starting to get to know this system.
Being able to use loupe made a massive difference but I do need to work on my technique in regards viewing the ground glass etc...
I may well see if I can find a Fresnel screen at some point to make life a little easier.

Anyway I walked away with a few shots that at the time I was very happy with.

I proceeded to load the film into the holder ready for development, Mistake number one...
Now this is a 3D printed version of a Mod54 style holder and I messed up as I found out when I had finished the development.
A number of the shots had loaded into the same slots and resulted in sheets touching / sticking together and resulting in development issues.

Now for mistake number two...
I realised after taking one of the shots that I had not taken into account the reciprocity of the film.
In my over zelus attempt to one correct this and two get everything developed I decided to stand develop them.
Now I have done this a number of times before but never with this film...
Lets just say the resulting negatives ended up somewhat over cooked. If anyone has any experience with stand development and foma 100 please let me know.
I would guess that I either need to drop the time down to around 30 minutes or increase the ratio to more like 1:200

So here are the images that I managed to save to some degree, thought I would share anyway.
Really not my best work...

Cambo Cadet + Xenar 150mm Lens
Fomapan 100
Rodinal Semi-stand 1:100 for 60 min

1.png

2.png

3.png
 
not so bad at all!
If I use Rodinal 1+100 at 20°C the developing time is 21 min, and I do it more often as in past times because Foma 100 likes the 1+100 dilution
 
not so bad at all!
If I use Rodinal 1+100 at 20°C the developing time is 21 min, and I do it more often as in past times because Foma 100 likes the 1+100 dilution
Thankyou. Is that 21min with standard agitations (every minute) or more like a semi stand?
 
Hi all

I managed to get out for the first time today with the new camera.
Very much enjoyed the outing and starting to get to know this system.
Being able to use loupe made a massive difference but I do need to work on my technique in regards viewing the ground glass etc...
I may well see if I can find a Fresnel screen at some point to make life a little easier.

Anyway I walked away with a few shots that at the time I was very happy with.

I proceeded to load the film into the holder ready for development, Mistake number one...
Now this is a 3D printed version of a Mod54 style holder and I messed up as I found out when I had finished the development.
A number of the shots had loaded into the same slots and resulted in sheets touching / sticking together and resulting in development issues.

Now for mistake number two...
I realised after taking one of the shots that I had not taken into account the reciprocity of the film.
In my over zelus attempt to one correct this and two get everything developed I decided to stand develop them.
Now I have done this a number of times before but never with this film...
Lets just say the resulting negatives ended up somewhat over cooked. If anyone has any experience with stand development and foma 100 please let me know.
I would guess that I either need to drop the time down to around 30 minutes or increase the ratio to more like 1:200

So here are the images that I managed to save to some degree, thought I would share anyway.
Really not my best work...

Cambo Cadet + Xenar 150mm Lens
Fomapan 100
Rodinal Semi-stand 1:100 for 60 min

I'd say that's an astoundingly good first go. Well done.


In general, if you want to leave film in the developer for a long time and agitate infrequently, I find that you do have to increase dilution or the mid-tones especially will develop excessive local contrast.

I've never used Rodinal, but I find that Foma 100 in Pyrocat-HD needs a dilution in the neighbourhood of 1.5:1:250. Less dilute does tend to - as you say - "overcook" the negative. (This is even more the case with Fomapan 200 in my experience.)
 
I'd say that's an astoundingly good first go. Well done.


In general, if you want to leave film in the developer for a long time and agitate infrequently, I find that you do have to increase dilution or the mid-tones especially will develop excessive local contrast.

I've never used Rodinal, but I find that Foma 100 in Pyrocat-HD needs a dilution in the neighbourhood of 1.5:1:250. Less dilute does tend to - as you say - "overcook" the negative. (This is even more the case with Fomapan 200 in my experience.)
Thankyou

Maybe Im just being hyper critical of myself (as normal).

Yes indeed this does seem to be the case here. 1:100 for a semi stand with rodinal tends to normally work well, hoever I have a feeling that Foma must be developing at a higher rate than say fp4 etc...
I do have a roll of it in 35mm so may well do some testing with different timings and try to dial it in for if I go down this route again.

Thanks for the heads up regarding foma 200 as well, I intend giving that a go at some point.
 
Foma films build up contrast quickly, best used at half box speed and around 75% of the development time of FP4.

I've switched to Fomapan 200 for 7x5 and 10x8 simply because Ilford films are too expensive, although I have quite a bit of 10x8 EFKE 25 and Fortepan 200 to use up first.

I made my second 10x8 image near you, the at Cwmystwyth about 19 years ago, followed by some in the Rheidol Valley, it's an area I've not visited for since, nearest has been the Elon valley.

I have a University friend who lives in an old railway station on the Manchester & Milford line.

Ian
 
Foma films build up contrast quickly, best used at half box speed and around 75% of the development time of FP4.

I've switched to Fomapan 200 for 7x5 and 10x8 simply because Ilford films are too expensive, although I have quite a bit of 10x8 EFKE 25 and Fortepan 200 to use up first.

I made my second 10x8 image near you, the at Cwmystwyth about 19 years ago, followed by some in the Rheidol Valley, it's an area I've not visited for since, nearest has been the Elon valley.

I have a University friend who lives in an old railway station on the Manchester & Milford line.

Ian
Thanks for the info, I may well be giving foma 200 a go at some point given what I have been reading about their ISO ratings.
I know those areas very well. The two waterfall shots got taken in the Rheidol Valley which is only about 15 - 20 minutes away from me.

Elan valley and Cymystwyth are on my list to head out to over the next few weeks with the cambo (trying to time it so there are not so many tourists). If ever you are heading up this way again give me a shout.
 
21min I agitate every min, not that accurate but relatively constant.
I used 1+50 over the past years but than pictorial planet showed 1+100 and was happy about it in all
so I tested it with my fomapan sheet films and yes there happens something special,
better sharpness and some ASA to get more info in shadows
now it's my dev time and of course as a retired one I have got that time to go for


4x5-fleure.jpg

btw. it's necessary to use a good light meter, I use a Sekonic L 758 with spot metering so I'm ablate look for blacks and whites
 
21min I agitate every min, not that accurate but relatively constant.
I used 1+50 over the past years but than pictorial planet showed 1+100 and was happy about it in all
so I tested it with my fomapan sheet films and yes there happens something special,
better sharpness and some ASA to get more info in shadows
now it's my dev time and of course as a retired one I have got that time to go for


View attachment 4756

btw. it's necessary to use a good light meter, I use a Sekonic L 758 with spot metering so I'm ablate look for blacks and whites

Beautiful image. Well seen and executed.
 
21min I agitate every min, not that accurate but relatively constant.
I used 1+50 over the past years but than pictorial planet showed 1+100 and was happy about it in all
so I tested it with my fomapan sheet films and yes there happens something special,
better sharpness and some ASA to get more info in shadows
now it's my dev time and of course as a retired one I have got that time to go for


View attachment 4756

btw. it's necessary to use a good light meter, I use a Sekonic L 758 with spot metering so I'm ablate look for blacks and whites
Very nice indeed. I do enjoy watching pictorial planet, his 1+200 results are interesting for sure.

The one thing I do not have at present is a spot meter. I currently use a Sekonic 308 as well as a app on my phone which so far has been ok. I intend looking at a spot meter over the coming months however.
 
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