Organising dark slides

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super_claret

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Total newbie here and wanted to ask how you experienced shooters identify which film is loaded In each of your DDS? Do you number the dark slides and jot that down in your exposure log or is there a common system used?

For example, If I loaded 6x DDS, some with FP4, some with Fomapan and some with Ektar, what system do you use to identify in the field.

Apologies if this seems like a stupid question!
 
Firstly, it’s almost certainly better to have fewer choices. Two B+W films? … and colour? Many people, including me, find it difficult to shift from seeing in monochrome to seeing in colour, in one outing. Other people have no difficulty.
Ben Horne (qv) carries his dark-sides in protective sleeves and their different colours denote different films. He is shooting 10x8 colour film in a wilderness, five hours’ drive from home, so each one represents a considerable investment of money and time.
It would be easier and very much cheaper to put all your Film A in one polythene bag with a piece of paper saying “FILM A“ and so on.
 
super_claret said:
Total newbie here and wanted to ask how you experienced shooters identify which film is loaded In each of your DDS? Do you number the dark slides and jot that down in your exposure log or is there a common system used?

For example, If I loaded 6x DDS, some with FP4, some with Fomapan and some with Ektar, what system do you use to identify in the field.

Apologies if this seems like a stupid question!
Click to expand...
Sticky labels, either coloured or written on. Once you've forgotten to take the note of which numbered slide contains which film a few times, you soon learn to make sure they are clearly labelled.

Fuji used to produce film in their QuickLoad envelope system. It was great. The envelopes were clearly labelled with the film type and we produced our own exposure record labels that we stuck on the envelopes to fill in. Unfortunately, they used to cost the earth to buy compared with ordinary film for DDS and folks would only buy them short dated and at a reduced price. This meant that Fuji would not see the sales they wanted of new film at full price and, eventually, discontinued the system. But I still have a freezer full of the stuff ;)
 
Thank you for the responses. Are there areas on the DDS that can be written on in pencil, then erased later? As I said, I’m new to this and just trying to gain as much knowledge as possible before actually shooting. Haven't even received my camera yet!
 
super_claret said:
Thank you for the responses. Are there areas on the DDS that can be written on in pencil, then erased later? As I said, I’m new to this and just trying to gain as much knowledge as possible before actually shooting. Haven't even received my camera yet!
Click to expand...

Yes there are. Two small white rectangles on each side. In one rectangle I write a number, in permanent ink. I have eight film holders so my numbers go from 1 to 16. When I take a picture and write the details in a notebook, I keep track by using these numbers.
In the other white rectangle I write the name of the film loaded into the holder - in pencil. This can be easily erased later if I change to a different film.
 
Some brands of dark slide have small white panels that can be written on. If you buy used ones, they will often be marked already, often in immortal ink.
You will be making notes of each exposure, I hope. If you number the slides, you can record what’s in each. Numbering can be 1, 2, 3, 4… so each sheet has a separate number, or you can number the holders themselves as 1A, 1B; 2A, 2B…
Rubber bands are available in different sizes and colours. Putting a different colour on each kind of film would work well, too. More simply, you could have one band for FP4, two bands for Foma and no band at all for Ektachrome. You’d have to remember the password, of course.
Post-it notes sound very useful, but I’ve never trusted them.
I once encountered someone who wrote on the darkslide sheaths with a Chinagraph. Hmmmm…
 
Alan Clark said:
Yes there are. Two small white rectangles on each side. In one rectangle I write a number, in permanent ink. I have eight film holders so my numbers go from 1 to 16. When I take a picture and write the details in a notebook, I keep track by using these numbers.
In the other white rectangle I write the name of the film loaded into the holder - in pencil. This can be easily erased later if I change to a different film.
Click to expand...

Thank you Alan, that’s just the info I was looking for. I’m curious to know how you keep track if you send the sheets off for processing, especially if you have a few shots of A similar subject?
 
David M said:
Some brands of dark slide have small white panels that can be written on. If you buy used ones, they will often be marked already, often in immortal ink.
You will be making notes of each exposure, I hope. If you number the slides, you can record what’s in each. Numbering can be 1, 2, 3, 4… so each sheet has a separate number, or you can number the holders themselves as 1A, 1B; 2A, 2B…
Rubber bands are available in different sizes and colours. Putting a different colour on each kind of film would work well, too. More simply, you could have one band for FP4, two bands for Foma and no band at all for Ektachrome. You’d have to remember the password, of course.
Post-it notes sound very useful, but I’ve never trusted them.
I once encountered someone who wrote on the darkslide sheaths with a Chinagraph. Hmmmm…
Click to expand...

Yes, the chinagraph isn’t a good idea…guessing it could leave debris as you remove the dark slide? I’d thought about using an adhesive label but probably peel off eventually the more you use the slide?
 
super_claret said:
Thank you Alan, that’s just the info I was looking for. I’m curious to know how you keep track if you send the sheets off for processing, especially if you have a few shots of A similar subject?
Click to expand...
Can't help you there. I develop my own...
Regarding being organised, I store my film holders in padded envelopes. Take a film holder to the stationers and you will soon find the right size. I cut the flap off the envelope and strengthen the open end with gaffer tape.
When these are stored in your bag and you are pulling a film holder out, if the handle end of the film holder is at the open end of the envelope, it is easy to pull a slide out by mistake, and ruin a sheet of film. To stop this happening I store the film holders with the darkslide handles down. I also put a strong rubber band on each film holder, end to end.
 
I would imagine so. More importantly, it might abrade the felt or velvet in the light seal. This will only become evident for that unrepeatable once-in-two-lifetimes shot. To be useful, you’d have to label both sides. You wouldn’t want it to peel off as you drew the slide, either.
Making permanent additions to a dark slide seems unwise. In the future you may decide to change from, say, one B+W negative film to various transparency films and have to scrape off your modifications.
 
Alan Clark said:
Can't help you there. I develop my own...
Regarding being organised, I store my film holders in padded envelopes. Take a film holder to the stationers and you will soon find the right size. I cut the flap off the envelope and strengthen the open end with gaffer tape.
When these are stored in your bag and you are pulling a film holder out, if the handle end of the film holder is at the open end of the envelope, it is easy to pull a slide out by mistake, and ruin a sheet of film. To stop this happening I store the film holders with the darkslide handles down. I also put a strong rubber band on each film holder, end to end.
Click to expand...

Same question but for developing at home? I’m going to do my own B&W in a Stearman Press tank. I guess it’s just a case of remembering which is which by subject or is there a specific way you load the film?
 
I use those little round, coloured, sticky labels they sell to go on wall planners :)
 
You can make a note of the dark slide number and the required processing at the time of exposure. Particularly if you’re at the beginning of the path, you should be making notes anyway.
You can, as Mr Marley says, fix a (removable) sticker or you can sort the exposed holders into bags labelled plus, minus, normal and so on.
In practice, you may find that on a single outing, you’ll be photographing tonally similar subjects in much the same light.
 
I would also urge the one film one developer route till you get the feel of large format. There's enough to contend with - without multiple film types!
 
One trick is to take a mobile phone pic of the same scene at the same time and then you will have GPS data to let you know where you took it.
 
I have used the method recommended in the book Way Beyond Monochrome by Lambrecht and Woodhouse. Using the binary system you cut small grooves in the folding bottom section of the holder which then shows up on the edge of the film. Worth a look. That way you know which holder was used for which image. You need to number the holders as has been suggested and use the white Matt section to write the film type on in pencil which can be erased if you later use a different film. Also make plenty of notes especially when starting out.
 
Joanna Carter said:
One trick is to take a mobile phone pic of the same scene at the same time and then you will have GPS data to let you know where you took it.
Click to expand...
I use a viewfinder app on my phone for large format - so I usually do anyway. I actually find that app ideal for 'scouting out' LF locations too
 
I number all holders and record that number along with relevant location and exposure data into a voice recording app on my mobile phone. That way, if there is some defect, I can trace it back to the holder, the side, and the lens that was in use at that time.

I purchased anti-static bags of appropriate size to hold one film holder each. These are the grey bags you see computer boards shipped in. They come in a variety of sizes and with ziplok type closures. I mark the film type either on the exterior of the bag or with a label affixed to the holder itself. I use a P-Touch type label maker for this.

The antistatic bags dramatically reduce the risk of dirt accumulation and dust attraction because of static, particularly in colder, dryer weather. The holders come out only for exposure and for loading/unloading thereby having minimal exposure to the detritus of the world around us. Highly recommended (it sure beats spotting prints).
 
thronobulax said:
I number all holders and record that number along with relevant location and exposure data into a voice recording app on my mobile phone. That way, if there is some defect, I can trace it back to the holder, the side, and the lens that was in use at that time.

I purchased anti-static bags of appropriate size to hold one film holder each. These are the grey bags you see computer boards shipped in. They come in a variety of sizes and with ziplok type closures. I mark the film type either on the exterior of the bag or with a label affixed to the holder itself. I use a P-Touch type label maker for this.

The antistatic bags dramatically reduce the risk of dirt accumulation and dust attraction because of static, particularly in colder, dryer weather. The holders come out only for exposure and for loading/unloading thereby having minimal exposure to the detritus of the world around us. Highly recommended (it sure beats spotting prints).
Click to expand...

where did you source these bags please?
 
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