Foma 200 ,are you getting good shadow detail without blowing the highlights?

Camerashy

Camerashy

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I'm struggling with this film, suggestions please.
 
Ian-Barber said:
What ISO are you using and what developer do you use
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Fx39 11mins 30 secs, exposed at 160, 125 and 100. The ei100 looks the best for shadow detail but the highlights look a bit muddy. A low contrast developer may be my next option, Pyrocat HD sounds promising. Is there a developer that will give box speed, even if it means stand development?
 
Camerashy said:
I'm struggling with this film, suggestions please.
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It likes to get contrasty if developed too aggressively. As @Ian Grant suggests upthread, exposing at EI 100 and developing in Pyrocat is a good combination. The Pyrocat tends to pull in the highlights as it is semi-compensating. Alternatively, you might consider something like D-23 at 1+1 which will show strong highlight compensation as well.
 
I rate all versions of Fomapan at half box speed. Shadows on zone 3 and sometimes adjust development times depending on how far the highlights are. I've used Rodinal 1+25, 1+50 and Adox XT-3 stock, both give me results I'm happy with. I don't think you'll get box speed without essentially pushing the film but that will increase contrast.
 
Camerashy said:
Still 1+1+100 for 12 mins 20c as you have posted in other threads?
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Yes, I've no reason to change after 18 years.

Microphen would probably give maybe 1/3 to 1/2 stop more speed, but the advantage of a staining developer like Pyrocat HD is as density builds up the tanning effects and stain tame highlights.

Ian
 
I guess it's all part of the fun exploring different films and developer combinations, some film developers and films are a match made in heaven. Then again I suppose its down to what you are trying to create from your negative. Love it.
 
I use 510 Pyro with Foma 200. I use the standard 1:100 strength. As it's it's a pyro developer the staining pulls back the highlights. I also have used this developer with PAN F at 1:500 as per Martin Henson's video and retained an enormous dynamic range which should hold true with the Foma 200. If you are scanning the film it might be worth tweaking the settings. I have a V800 and you can multi expose it to give a greater range (this only works when you set it to colour output)
 
Jonathan Hotopf said:
I use 510 Pyro with Foma 200. I use the standard 1:100 strength. As it's it's a pyro developer the staining pulls back the highlights. I also have used this developer with PAN F at 1:500 as per Martin Henson's video and retained an enormous dynamic range which should hold true with the Foma 200. If you are scanning the film it might be worth tweaking the settings. I have a V800 and you can multi expose it to give a greater range (this only works when you set it to colour output)
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Do you use the Foma 200 at asa100 ?
 
I just bought some Fomapan 200 in 5x7 recently though haven't started using it yet. I use Rodinal (or equivalent) for everything so does anyone think I should alter the metering or maybe switch to a more suitable developer? By the way I like Rodinal, grain and all, the tonality reminds me of all the vintage negatives I have which I inherited from my father and even took myself.
 
Pete Spencer said:
I just bought some Fomapan 200 in 5x7 recently though haven't started using it yet. I use Rodinal (or equivalent) for everything so does anyone think I should alter the metering or maybe switch to a more suitable developer? By the way I like Rodinal, grain and all, the tonality reminds me of all the vintage negatives I have which I inherited from my father and even took myself.
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I used to use Rodinal fairly regularly. Then I tested it against ID11 at a dilution of 1+2, using 35mm film. ID11 1+2 was better in every respect. Slightly sharper. Slightly more film speed. Better mid-tone separation when given reduced development to control highlights. And less grain. So I stopped using Rodinal.
Then a friend gave me a bottle of Fomadon RO9 -aka rodinal- and I tried it on some 5 x 4 Foma 200 film. The results were very nice. For film taken in sunny conditions I rated the film at 100 and developed for 7.5 minutes in a 1+50 solution. No sun, film still rated at 100 and 10 minutes development. I really liked the results, but when the bottle of Fomadon RO9 ran out, I reverted to ID111 at 1+2; mainly because this is my go - to developer for most film; 35mm, 120 and large format. and I like the simplicity of not using too many different developers.
For your 5x7 film tonality is everything. Sharpness and grain won't be an issue. So I should stick to Rodinal. It does seem to work very well with Foma 200.
 
As usual with Foma films half box speed and reduce development, and as Alan says 1 to 50.

Ian
 
Alan Clark said:
I used to use Rodinal fairly regularly. Then I tested it against ID11 at a dilution of 1+2, using 35mm film. ID11 1+2 was better in every respect. Slightly sharper. Slightly more film speed. Better mid-tone separation when given reduced development to control highlights. And less grain. So I stopped using Rodinal.
Then a friend gave me a bottle of Fomadon RO9 -aka rodinal- and I tried it on some 5 x 4 Foma 200 film. The results were very nice. For film taken in sunny conditions I rated the film at 100 and developed for 7.5 minutes in a 1+50 solution. No sun, film still rated at 100 and 10 minutes development. I really liked the results, but when the bottle of Fomadon RO9 ran out, I reverted to ID111 at 1+2; mainly because this is my go - to developer for most film; 35mm, 120 and large format. and I like the simplicity of not using too many different developers.
For your 5x7 film tonality is everything. Sharpness and grain won't be an issue. So I should stick to Rodinal. It does seem to work very well with Foma 200.
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Hey Alan. This message sparked my memory. Some years ago I asked about id11 1+2 times in the film and darkroom forum.

You spoke about times and gave me advise. Totally forgot as I was looking for times recently.

Hope all is well and you still shooting away

Aaron
 
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