Paper Negative Still Life

Very moody and interesting. I assume this is an inverted scan.
Did you use Y/M filtration in camera?
 
David M said:
Very moody and interesting. I assume this is an inverted scan.
Did you use Y/M filtration in camera?
Click to expand...

I scanned the paper negative emulsion side down on the scanner glass. I was going to use a yellow filter but didn't think there was enough strong blue light in the scene to warrant it
 
Works well Ian.

I'm going to take it a step further and reversal process the paper images something I've done before after attending a lecture back around 1973. The lecture was by a research student doing a PhD he was shooting FP4 slides - so reversal processing the film, the making reversal B&W prints on Ilfobrom, not so easy as there were no resin coated papers then, the quality was stunning but the controls needed to be so tight.

Ilford/Harman don't cut and sell UK sizes like 12"x10", 15"x12" etc of their Direct Positive paper only the US 14"x11" which just needs simple development (as you did), so i've no option except add te extra reversal steps.

Ian
 
I was wondering if you are able to control overall contrast in the paper negative using printing filters. Not the same as increasing the contrast of clouds in a blue sky when using panchromatic film.
I don't know the implications, but I presume it would be possible to use one contrast number for making the neg, then another when making the contact print. There might be some element of fine tuning to be exploited.
Almost certainly easier to make subsequent adjustments on-screen, but I don't think that's why you started down this particular road.
 
Yes you could have a lot of control if you use a paper negative - at the taking stage a little (unless you're doing tests), at the contact printing stage a lot by filtration or choice of developer. Actually you'd have similar controls at the taking stage once proficient.

Ian
 
Im still experimenting with paper negatives and multigrade paper. For cloudy overcast days, ISO 4 - 6 seems about right but I am still having to pull the negative from the developer to stop the high values from blowing out.

The best result I have had is to put a Grade 00 filter behind the lens before exposing.

I have tried some contact prints but so far they have all been a disaster
 
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