Didn't really work.

[soupdragon]

Toyo 45A, Rodenstock 180 5.6, 1/30s @ f11, processed in Belinifoto E6, scanned with epson V850 pro using silverfast 9 se, corrected using Canon DPP.

 

[Ian Grant]

f11 is not ideal, plus focus needs to be a third of the way into the scene, don't be afraid of stopping down to f22 or even f32.

Ian

 

[thronobulax]

Toyo 45A, Rodenstock 180 5.6, 1/30s @ f11, processed in Belinifoto E6, scanned with epson V850 pro using silverfast 9 se, corrected using Canon DPP.

View attachment 4415

Consider slight front tilt forward or rear back tilt. That will get foreground and distance both into sharp focus.

cf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheimpflug_principle

 

[karlt]

Here are a few YouTube videos I have found really useful, all cover use of front and rear tilt and the affect on DOF and perspective.

 

[jhotopf]

To calculate the tilt required you can measure the focus shift between two points that you want in focus and divide this number by the vertical focus screen distance on the ground glass. The resulting number you get the reverse tan and this is the tilt forwards you need to apply. Eg. if the two object had a vertical distance of 70mm and the focus shift was 10mm the shift angle is 8 degrees. (I use an iphone app to get the angle exact).

 

[David M]

Almost certainly, it’s easier to use the ground glass and the old-fashioned re-iteration system. It seems very tedious at first, but it will soon become quicker
After a while you can almost guess the angle while setting up. It can help if you mentally visualise where the subject plane and the film plane meet and then aligning the lens plane (the front standard) with that.
If you have a camera with scales for both extension and angle, such a Sinar monorail, by all means use them.