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FILM TESTING
- Thread starter LEO
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On an APUG/FADU weekend in Cornwall about 9 or 10 years ago three of us were sat talking after taking some images. We were discussing metering I had a pair of meters a Gossen Luna Pro and a Capital (Soligor) Spotmeter, the other meters were Sekonic incident meter and a Minolta Spotmeter. We all metered the same scene and allowing for the fact we were using different films etc all 4 meters and our chosen exposures were within a 1/3 of a stop.
I'd probably use an incident meter for a shot like this mainly because I'd be using electronic flash and that's how I've worked for years, but I'd be just as happy to use my spotmeter (I now have a Minolta Spotmeter F).
I'm not sure that an incident meter is more "forgiving", it is more accurate at reading the actual light level striking the subject and so less prone to mis-interpretation.
Ian
I'd probably use an incident meter for a shot like this mainly because I'd be using electronic flash and that's how I've worked for years, but I'd be just as happy to use my spotmeter (I now have a Minolta Spotmeter F).
I'm not sure that an incident meter is more "forgiving", it is more accurate at reading the actual light level striking the subject and so less prone to mis-interpretation.
Ian
Leo,
Thank you. I understand. There were odd spaces between the lines that gave me the wrong impression.
We know from the pictures that you'e posted already that you are an excellent photographer. May I ask what improvement you are looking for by changing your technique?
Thank you. I understand. There were odd spaces between the lines that gave me the wrong impression.
We know from the pictures that you'e posted already that you are an excellent photographer. May I ask what improvement you are looking for by changing your technique?
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I like to use my spot meter too @Ian-Barber thanks for the Photoshop tools been working well. really enjoy listening to your educational videos too... so many thanks, all round! hope your all enjoying the snow look forward to seeing some images ;-)
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Hi @David M
hope you well!
The main reason I love to learn something new!
Second, I was getting very grainy images due to picking up a 100 sheet pack of HP5plus cheep at a market and buying some R09 dev from foma.
I think I've achieved some nice tonalities in the average shot ;-) I also created an exact image and developed it normally with d76.... a very different result lots more contrast harsher image that doesn't "in my eyes suit the shot"
Id likes to get it down pat, then maybe shoot some portraits and develop them in the same way.
Id also like to reduce the dev to 6ml to 1400ml of water and leave it standing for double the time see if the results differ? due to time restraints, I upped the dev x2 and kept the time duration the same.
I'm due for a bit of time off over Easter so would love to get out for a couple of days with a tent and go for a walk see what I can find Just get out of the city really, I bought myself a new 90mm super Angulon 5.6 so a little excited to see the difference between that and the Linhof Syncro Campur 90mm F6.8, certainly looks the goods! will need a bigger bag tho ;-))
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Leo, I've been using HP5 for hand-held LF work and have been very surprised at the image quality and lack of grain even in 24x20 prints. However I think your grain issue is from using RO9 with a conventional grain 400 ISO film, a combination known to increase grain.
I'm assuming the "Linhof Syncro Campur 90mm F6.8" is a plain Angulon, there is a huge difference in size and weight 211gms (inc lens board) compared to 589 gms
The major difference is the Image Circle 154mm (f16) for the 90mm f6.8 Angulon which only just covers 5x4 while the f5.6 Super Angulon IC is 234mm (f22) and covers 7x5 with a little room for movements so is better still on a 5x4 camera. The Super Angulon is a better lens but used carefully the Angulons are very capable, I use mine because it's small and light.
Ian
I'm assuming the "Linhof Syncro Campur 90mm F6.8" is a plain Angulon, there is a huge difference in size and weight 211gms (inc lens board) compared to 589 gms
The major difference is the Image Circle 154mm (f16) for the 90mm f6.8 Angulon which only just covers 5x4 while the f5.6 Super Angulon IC is 234mm (f22) and covers 7x5 with a little room for movements so is better still on a 5x4 camera. The Super Angulon is a better lens but used carefully the Angulons are very capable, I use mine because it's small and light.
Ian
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Hi, @Ian Grant thanks for your insights,
I've never been that happy with the sharpness of the Linhof Agulon I'm hoping to see some increase in sharpness with this lens also less restriction with movements, I can see the attraction if going for a long walk ;-)
I've never been that happy with the sharpness of the Linhof Agulon I'm hoping to see some increase in sharpness with this lens also less restriction with movements, I can see the attraction if going for a long walk ;-)
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The early 90mm Angulons were quite variable in quality this had been overcome by around the 5,000,000 serial number. An Australian repairman who made Polaroid conversion 5x4 cameras (Razzledog) found there was an issue with the Compur shutter tube length which affected the cell spacing causing a significant loss of sharpness in the worst cases. When he machined the cases to the correct length he found that sharpness was restored.
The first 90mm Angulon I owned was poor, later I borrowed another that was no better, but I picked up my current one at a bargain price and it's a good sharp lens.
You often find that WA LF lenses use spacer shims as the cell spacing is critical for maximum sharpness and is optimised for each lens, there's two used with my Grandagon.
My guess is you will find the 90mm f5.6 Super Angulon a lot sharper.
Ian
The first 90mm Angulon I owned was poor, later I borrowed another that was no better, but I picked up my current one at a bargain price and it's a good sharp lens.
You often find that WA LF lenses use spacer shims as the cell spacing is critical for maximum sharpness and is optimised for each lens, there's two used with my Grandagon.
My guess is you will find the 90mm f5.6 Super Angulon a lot sharper.
Ian
I had thought there was texture on the rendered wall, but it's also on the vertical blinds. It's hard to understand, especially with a photographer of Leo's quality.
Some things come into my head, all remote possibilities.
Anti-reflection picture-framing glass instead of Anti-Newton glass in the scanner's film holder?
I have found that dust removal software can do odd things to scanned silver images.
Is a Photoshop filter or effect accidentally switched on? I'm not sure how this could happen.
Is sharpening switched off?
Is there a glitch in the scanner software? Does it need updating? [My scanner produced astonishingly bad results after an OS update, until I updated VueScan too.]
Can the problem lie with "HP5plus cheap at a market"? Does it have the correct notch code?
Could you try HP5 bought expensively in a shop?
Could you try returning to ID11 or D76? I've not heard of them producing such problems.
Could you try a commercial lab for a few test sheets?
This might happen if a darkroom print on textured paper were scanned, but I don't think this is the case here.
That's emptied my tiny brain of all ideas, even very unlikely or silly ones. My apologies if some of them seem insultingly simplistic. That's not my intention; I'm trying to cast as wide a net as possible.
Some things come into my head, all remote possibilities.
Anti-reflection picture-framing glass instead of Anti-Newton glass in the scanner's film holder?
I have found that dust removal software can do odd things to scanned silver images.
Is a Photoshop filter or effect accidentally switched on? I'm not sure how this could happen.
Is sharpening switched off?
Is there a glitch in the scanner software? Does it need updating? [My scanner produced astonishingly bad results after an OS update, until I updated VueScan too.]
Can the problem lie with "HP5plus cheap at a market"? Does it have the correct notch code?
Could you try HP5 bought expensively in a shop?
Could you try returning to ID11 or D76? I've not heard of them producing such problems.
Could you try a commercial lab for a few test sheets?
This might happen if a darkroom print on textured paper were scanned, but I don't think this is the case here.
That's emptied my tiny brain of all ideas, even very unlikely or silly ones. My apologies if some of them seem insultingly simplistic. That's not my intention; I'm trying to cast as wide a net as possible.
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Hi david!
so I headed out the other day to check out a second hand Land Rover Defender 130 ;-)
took my gear to the city with me and wanted to test out my new 90mm see how good it was (I'm happy with it)
whilst taking my loupe out i noticed a rattle so took it to pices popped it back togeter no rattles and shot.
now I belive (I maybe wrong) but I think my focous was a out on a few images due to loupe so was adding too much sharpening to the images to get what I wanted?
nothing else changed.
apart from comming home mwith a second hand Defender ;-)
so I headed out the other day to check out a second hand Land Rover Defender 130 ;-)
took my gear to the city with me and wanted to test out my new 90mm see how good it was (I'm happy with it)
whilst taking my loupe out i noticed a rattle so took it to pices popped it back togeter no rattles and shot.
now I belive (I maybe wrong) but I think my focous was a out on a few images due to loupe so was adding too much sharpening to the images to get what I wanted?
nothing else changed.
apart from comming home mwith a second hand Defender ;-)
Now who would have thought of that? If it proves to be the case, it's an excellent piece of detective work.
I take it that the dramatic vertical shot is taken with the new 90mm. How do you manage shooting upwards with a view camera? I find it very awkward indeed.
Enjoy the Defender.
I take it that the dramatic vertical shot is taken with the new 90mm. How do you manage shooting upwards with a view camera? I find it very awkward indeed.
Enjoy the Defender.
