Go to portrait lens

Wow Francis shooting at f45. I find with all my lenses with flash over f16 the sharpness in skin texture can be rather unflattering and unforgiving. The lens captures all the pores in skin. That is even with massive soft light modifiers.

I’m actually investigating looking into using tights over the lens to soften the image. Or something like a tiffens pro mist filter.
Well, I sometimes have to shoot wide open :)

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In other threads I've shared pictures made with my Dallmeyer 2B 8¼" (210mm) f3 Portrait Petzval lens so I won't clog up the forum by reposting but it would be nice to see some shots from Ian and his ;).
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The 2B used on my 10x8 Agfa Ansco Commercial View, with a 5x4reducing back. HP5, f16 - studio flash using my large, front fitting, Gitzo leaf shutter. I need to explore using this lens more at wider apertures.

I had an issue with the Gitzo shutter next time I tried to use it, that was easily sorted out, just dried out lubricant. But it does highlight you also need to think about shutters when using barrel lenses.

Ian
 
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The 2B used on my 10x8 Agfa Ansco Commercial View, with a 5x4reducing back. HP5, f16 - studio flash using my large, front fitting, Gitzo leaf shutter. I need to explore using this lens more at wider apertures.

I had an issue with the Gitzo shutter next time I tried to use it, that was easily sorted out, just dried out lubricant. But it does highlight you also need to think about shutters when using barrel lenses.

Ian

It definitely seems low in contrast. I would agree it’s worth exploring
 
The 2B used on my 10x8 Agfa Ansco Commercial View, with a 5x4reducing back. HP5, f16 - studio flash using my large, front fitting, Gitzo leaf shutter. I need to explore using this lens more at wider apertures.
I don’t think anyone would ever guess this was made with a Dally 2B. I noticed the same when I used my Kodak Aero Ektar 7.5 inch f/2.5 lens stopped down to f8 and below, it lost all of its unique characteristics. It all depends on what you want the end result to look like. I personally like the shallow depth of field these old lenses give you.
Ian, the Dally 2B works great on a 5x4 Speed Graphic. It also adapts well to a Sinar shutter.
 
When I showed some friends darkroom prints off the2B negatives they assumed I'd bought a brand-new lens. I agree about shooting f8 or wider to help bring out the more unique characteristics.

I need to experiment a bit more, I have another 8" Petzval I have used with my pre-Anniversary Speed Graphic, but was really disappointed with the results, however I had a look at the rear cell recently and fond one element was the wrong way around. I will test, then sell this one, as I also have a 6" Petzval, and the Dallmeyer 2D.

Meanwhile, I need to get the darkroom sorted out, and do some printing, I've acquired 10 50 sheet boxes of 20"16" paper in the last 18 months, as well as some a fraction smaller like 16"x12".

Ian
 
The tights in front of a lens is a very old trick for printing portraits in a darkroom. Give it a go but when using it over your camera lens you're baking in the effect, same with a pro mist filter. I'm sure you know that (it's a bit obvious) but the benefit of using it over the enlarger lens (if you're printing wet) is you can experiment with different types. I wonder what kind of results a pro mist filter over an enlarger lens would give you.
Putting the tights/filter over the enlarger lens gives a different effect (assuming you're printing negatives) than putting it over the camera lens. On the camera the highlights get spread into the shadows, on the enlarger the shadows get spread into the highlights. Works for some portraits but not the effect generally preferred.
 
Concerning portrait lense an Imagon should work fine - if you are after soft focus images.
It has an adjustable range of SF from "Hossa!" (full SF) to sharp.
This is "Hossa!" but 5x7" (13x18cm in real):

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For portraits, to me it's mostly of importance to have a mild in general, but very well rendering lens for the background.
For this you may have a look at this testsession, contact prints from 12x16" negatives:

30 40.jpg
This has been an ancient Heliar coming from 1904 ( concerning it's serial number with the same design as the Universal Heliar SF lens, except the internal lens movement mechanism). My best performing mild lens; tonality and softness of the shadows are so lovely, oh my...

The sharp in general 150mm Schneider Symmar renders well, too - if aperture is open, and if the background related to the model is in perfect distance. The model will pop.
The older 210mm Schneider Xenar sitting in a Compound performs mild, wide open. A great portrait lens in my understanding.
Both lenses aren't such price intensive and good enough to me for general purposes.
 
Ian, the Dally 2B works great on a 5x4 Speed Graphic. It also adapts well to a Sinar shutter.

How are you adapting it to the 2B? Remember I don't have a Sinar camera.

I used my Gizto shutter again a couple of weeks ago with the 2B at f6, but the actual exposure is too long alongside the flash exposure, if that makes sense, fine in a dark studio, or where the modelling lights are set low. There's also another issue with the Gitzo shutter if you open the shutter to focus while connected to a studio flash unit it trips the flash but stays closed circuit . . . . . . . .

Ian
 
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The older 210mm Schneider Xenar sitting in a Compound performs mild, wide open. A great portrait lens in my understanding.
Both lenses aren't such price intensive and good enough to me for general purposes.

The 210mm CZJ Tesssar is also a good option, again in a Compound #3. As I said in Post #13 of this thread I have far too many lenses around 210mm, I guess this Tessar needs to go to a new home.

Ian
 
12"x16" negatives? Which camera did you use? Thanks.

For travelling or portraits away from home I could use my 30x40cm German Reisekamera (travel camera :) ), which surprisingly comes with a weight of 12 Kg only. But I didn't until today.
Can't show a pic, sorry. Should make a pic of course...

For homestudio works I have a russian 30x40cm camera, which probably weighs 15 or 17 Kgs.

Both camera come with turnable backs, which lead to body dimensions of approx. 50x50cm.

I'm highly interested in buying Ilford film this year, but I either have to cut bigger films (what a waste), or to use smaller formats - 11x14" is in the offering. But to me, that's too small. Let's see...
So I have only used xray film and paper negatives so far. But both can work great, especially with post exposure work.

Helvetia an 30x40b.jpg
Made with an ancient Helvetia lens..

The russian lady:
behinda scene.jpg
 
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