Here I go again.

A Sinar board has a lip so while it's probably 2mm Aluminium with the lip it's effectively thicker so can be mounted on a Wista or Tachihara.

An Intrepid or Wista/Tachihara board will not fit a Sinar.

It just happens that my 12"x10" field camera 6½" x ½" lens boards are the virtually same size as the large Toyo View boards, I have one with a 360mm Apo Roar riveted to it. So I made an adapter board to allow the 6½" x ½" lens boards (I made more) to fit my 10x8 Agfa Ansco cameras. The Toyo board is

View attachment 5346

For comparison, the this rough wooden board is made from some scrap 4mm ply to test mount a lens for @AnalogueWendy a couple of years ago. Using 4mm ply it's easy to make an adapter to use your 5x4 lenses on the 10x8.

Ian
OK, I now know the Tachihara needs a stepped lens board.
The standard Sinar boards are not and would require the fittment of secondary light baffling.
By all accounts the Calumet lens board are geometrically and dimensionally correct but I have failed to find one for sale on the planet.

Can anybody find one for me?
 
Please post a picture of the front standard of your 10x8 camera. Ignore the slot on the Sinar boards, I've never had to use foam in the slots. The board sits flat.
OK, I'm on it.
As soon as the batteries are charged in my digicam I'll post some pictures.
 
Please post a picture of the front standard of your 10x8 camera. Ignore the slot on the Sinar boards, I've never had to use foam in the slots. The board sits flat.
Do you have a Tachihara 8X10 camera?
 
Please post a picture of the front standard of your 10x8 camera. Ignore the slot on the Sinar boards, I've never had to use foam in the slots. The board sits flat.
As requested.
 

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A return lip is always a bonus as it will increase the length of the light path around the lens board but its not essential if you are confident you have no light leaks. If you are worried you can always add a strip of self adhesive velvet round the edge on the back. You could also glue on little strip of pine to make a square frame and paint them with blackboard paint.
 
A return lip is always a bonus as it will increase the length of the light path around the lens board but its not essential if you are confident you have no light leaks. If you are worried you can always add a strip of self adhesive velvet round the edge on the back. You could also glue on little strip of pine to make a square frame and paint them with blackboard paint.
Thanks for that.
If you look at the picture I posted of the back end of the lens board you can see a gulley/slot around the perimeter of the lens board.
I am considering measuring the depth of the slot and fitting closed cell foam possibly .25mm thicker than the slot to form a compressed seal.

Waddaya think?
 
Foam or felt would work well and help with a tight fit , test before glue, you can laminate your own lens boards using modelling plywood and use veneer or stain to match , you are then still left with making the lens hole which does need to be a good fit , it’s quite a lot of work to do well , the linhof/wista conversion boards still give the best flexibility/value
 
As requested.
Now we’re talking. Your camera is the same as mine except mine has chrome fittings. I have a triple extension with brass fittings. You don’t need any extra foam or anything. Your Sinar board will work fine from my experience. Try it. I’ve seen a tiny bit of thickness variance in non Sinar branded boards but you can always slightly loosen the screws in the slider on the front standard if you need to.
 
Foam or felt would work well and help with a tight fit , test before glue, you can laminate your own lens boards using modelling plywood and use veneer or stain to match , you are then still left with making the lens hole which does need to be a good fit , it’s quite a lot of work to do well , the linhof/wista conversion boards still give the best flexibility/value
Would you mind pointing me in the right direction for Linhof/Wista boards in the uk?
 
Now we’re talking. Your camera is the same as mine except mine has chrome fittings. I have a triple extension with brass fittings. You don’t need any extra foam or anything. Your Sinar board will work fine from my experience. Try it. I’ve seen a tiny bit of thickness variance in non Sinar branded boards but you can always slightly loosen the screws in the slider on the front standard if you need to.
Triple extension! Are you bragging? :D
The screw tightness is an interesting point. I do wonder if there is enough compression on the board face but have no Idea how to determine what is "Correct"
Admittedly I could derive this empirically but that would require wasting a lot of film.
 
Would you mind pointing me in the right direction for Linhof/Wista boards in the uk?
From EBay seller is Nonpareil Photographic , search for
Linhof Fit Copal Compur #00 #0 #1 #2 #3 + Off-center + Custom + M65 Lens Boards

I have no affiliation but the service was good and very affordable.
These are plastic , if you wand std aluminium then there are many available , if you want the no.3 size they are often cheaper as less needed.
 
OK, I now know the Tachihara needs a stepped lens board.
The standard Sinar boards are not and would require the fittment of secondary light baffling.
By all accounts the Calumet lens board are geometrically and dimensionally correct but I have failed to find one for sale on the planet.

Can anybody find one for me?

The stepped area is there to provide an additional light trap [articularly as the lens board sits on varnished wood Linhof Fit Copal Compur

Would you mind pointing me in the right direction for Linhof/Wista boards in the uk?

You can get good new metal Linhof/Wista style lens boards from around £8 - £10 on eBay.

Where from?
UK?

Amazon, search for WoodPress. My Cherry wood veneer is arriving this evening. I bought some Red Oak veneer earlier in the week and it's really nice. I needed it for a horizontal Houghton King enlarger lens board, a lens board in a job lot I bought was the correct size but too thin, with veneer it's now perfect. The enlarger is made from wood with very pronounced grain patters, the oak veneer matches.

I normally use sheets of Mahogany/Sapele, sometimes Beech. It's worth noting that the final colour also comes from the finishing. I use three different colours of French polish, Amber which is a light Honey colour, also a medium and a dark Shellac. On odd occasions I need to add additional colour. I restored a Butcher Whole Plate National field camera which has a red/purple finish, I guess originally Dragon's Blood was added to the French polish, I just add Inkjet pigments to achieve the same colours.

Ian
 
My Cherry Wood veneer would be a good match to the Cherry Wood Wista 45DX a friend had, There's definitely colouring in the Tachihara finish.

Ian
 
My Cherry Wood veneer would be a good match to the Cherry Wood Wista 45DX a friend had, There's definitely colouring in the Tachihara finish.

Ian
What do you use to finish the wood?
I'm guessing clear varnish unless you want to "tune" the colour.
 
I use French polish which I make using flaked shellac, or Danish oil which is much easier to use and would be a better match to your camera.

Ian
 
Pretty to look at though.
I think all my large format cameras are pretty to look at. My triple extension looks the same as yours just with longer bellows. I'll confess I prefer the chrome fittings if I had to choose one.
 
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