How do you increase contrast when photographing trees, trunks, logs etc

[MartyNL]

I have a question about your darkroom filters;
1. Are you using a colour head or condenser head?
2. Which make and model?
3. Are you using above or below lens filters?
4. Were the filters bought new or 2ndhand and how old are they?

Sorry I'm hoping the OP will share....

 

[thronobulax]

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Conclusion.
Extending development increases overall negative contrast and density.

If all other things are held constant, yes.

But if you extend development AND increase developer dilution AND reduce agitation frequency, you do not get more negative contrast and density. Properly done, you get good negative dynamic range with the midtones well separated. But as noted upthread, this is a tricky technique to master and more often used by ULF shooters, though many of us have gotten quite good results with it in 5x4 and smaller formats. I routinely use it for 35mm and 120 when I want midtone separation.

Underdevelopment gives a thin negative that can be used with higher contrast filters in the enlarger to get better tonal separation between shadow and mid tones.

Not necessarily.

Overexposing and underdeveloping is time-honored Zone System technique. What underdevelopment will do is lower the contrast index of the negative which may- or may not work as you suggest, it's a matter of degree.

Long exposures can increase contrast slightly but not enough to worry about if printing on VC paper

Long exposures will increase shadow detail but may also "blow out" highlights.

In general, exposure mostly affects shadows, and development time mostly affects highlights.

High Alkaline developers produce more contrast and larger grain.

Usually, yes.

Yel/green, green, orange or red filters can be used to increase the difference in tones between colours in the scene.
Have I missed understood or missed anything?

You're off to a good start!

 

[thronobulax]

These days I've use a De Vere 5108 with a Dichroic colour head for LF, and a Durst M605 again with a colour head for MF and the odd 35mm neg.

Prior to getting the 5108 I used a Johnson V45, with a De Vere Cold cathode head, and below the lens filters, after Record Rapid was discontinued. I didn't find any difference printing with either filters or a colour head.

Ilford's Multigrade below the lens filters last well, I used a set for quite a few years. The filter drawer filters don't last as long as they are stored in card, which will have a moisture content.

Ian

I should like to put in a word for the Heiland VC LED head which I believe is made in models for most popular enlargers

I know they are ghastly expensive, but my Zone VI VC head died last year. I tried going back to a condenser head with filters and it was so painful, I raided the piggy bank and bought the Heiland. (And the cost was painful. ***

I've now have the better part of 6+ months with this head and it's been just life changing. The light output is very bright, easy to dim, completely stable, and manages contrast pretty much perfectly. I just got the basic controller and it's been everything I needed and more.
No more cold light drift, not more long exposures for high density burning (just increase head light output), built in focusing white light, built in red safelight for easel composition ... it's just a terrific tool.

*** Cost is relative. This head cost a fraction of what I have spent on cameras, lenses, and travel. Moreover, I am at the part of my orbit where I value time above money. Anything that helps me make better use of the remaining time the Good Lord gave me is of great value. YMMV.