Thanks – useful to know. I've still not got my development process 'down' but I will compare FP4+ with the same chemicals and see how I get on. When I first saw it I just assumed I'd screwed up somewhere, but seeing your post made me think twice. Am quite wary now although Foma 200 may be worth a go. This was a full box of the 100 but don't see much point continuing with it if there's a chance of them all being like that. Maybe the cheap price is too good to be true. Good luck!
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I have a 'rash' on my Foma 100 negs!
- Thread starter Stevans
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Out of interest, what batch number is on your Foma 100? I have 021754-03, dated until 2023-06. I have not experienced this issue with Foma 200 or 400, or even with Foma 100 in 35mm or 120. I would give the 100 another go, I did like the look of the negatives I was getting, but don’t want to risk my money on it at present, or the hassle it may involve.
Good question.. Exactly the same batch by the look of it: 021754 - 03, expires 2023-06. I will be trying out FP4+ at the weekend, but that seems like too much of a coincidence for it to be chance. As you say we're probably just unlucky, and I'm only shooting test shots so I've not really lost anything important (I only bought the 1 box thankfully). I'll have a look at the 200 and maybe give that a go at some point.
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Do you think Fomo 100 is a good choice, there are those here that prefer the 200 fomo, easier to control contrast ??
Hi Martin - I’m not sure to whom you are directing your question, but to be honest I feel that with my early 5x4 trials using Foma 100 I got so wrapped up in trying to get to the bottom of the issues I was having, I got distracted from really enjoying the film, so I couldn’t honestly give a very informed opinion on whether it is any good. However, from what I was seeing I was quite happy with the low grain and tone range I was getting, looking beyond the spots. As a result of the problems I found myself wanting a cost effective alternative while learning with the 5x4 and picked up some Foma 200, and have to say I am very happy with it so far. Like all things it depends what you’re comparing it to I guess. It’s been a long time since I seriously shot black and white film so I feel somewhat like I’m rediscovering it, and it’s great. The whole 5x4 process is really making me slow down and consider what I am doing. What I would say is that the 200 does seem easy to work with.
While I’m here, I’m really enjoying your YouTube channel, I’ve been learning a lot from you, thank you.
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I have not tried any Fomo as of yet, some people I know have problems with contrast build up on the 100 film, however, Fomo 200 gets some great reviews and a lot of film shooters prefer the slightly faster 200
Hi RLeal. Sorry to hear you have experienced the same issue. It’s oddly reassuring to know I’m not the only one! It is not something I have seen referred to much online, so it’s difficult to find a resolution or learn how to do something different if it is a fault in my process. I was put in contact with the U.K. importer of the Foma products (via the stockist I purchased from) who were helpful in as much as they refunded the money I had paid out and made a few suggestions as to what might be the cause, but unfortunately it did not lead to a satisfactory answer to the root cause of the issue. It seems many have good results with Foma 100, so I may retry it at some point as the price makes it very appealing for trying things out and experimenting. Frustrating if you get a killer shot that then has spots on it though, so for now I feel inclined to avoid it. I live in hope of that killer shot though
If you do get anywhere with the issue I would be very interested to hear about it.
If you do get anywhere with the issue I would be very interested to hear about it.
This is my first time shooting 4x5 and i've bought fomapan because of its low price.
Today i've developed a roll of HP5 120, with the same chemicals with no problems at all.
I'm waiting for a reply from Foma.
If i get any news i will post here.
Today i've developed a roll of HP5 120, with the same chemicals with no problems at all.
I'm waiting for a reply from Foma.
If i get any news i will post here.
Hello again,
Like i've said on my last post, i contacted Foma and they reply with the following,
"(...)our Quality dept. has found out that the described magenta spots are residues of not decolorized anti-halo layer used by our sheet film FOMAPAN 100. Considering your mentioned LOT/emulsion number (021754-02) we have to admit that in this formula we used more hardened anti-halo layer and that´s why decolorizing is not so easy."
Foma will replace my 4x5 negatives box.
They also described a way to try clean the negatives,
In case of your already exposed & processed negatives we recommend to you the following procedure to remove the residues of remaining anti-halo layer:
Cheers.
Ricardo
Like i've said on my last post, i contacted Foma and they reply with the following,
"(...)our Quality dept. has found out that the described magenta spots are residues of not decolorized anti-halo layer used by our sheet film FOMAPAN 100. Considering your mentioned LOT/emulsion number (021754-02) we have to admit that in this formula we used more hardened anti-halo layer and that´s why decolorizing is not so easy."
Foma will replace my 4x5 negatives box.
They also described a way to try clean the negatives,
In case of your already exposed & processed negatives we recommend to you the following procedure to remove the residues of remaining anti-halo layer:
- Prepare a working solution with at least 40% ethanol (optimally 70%).
- Carefully insert the sheet film foils into a tray or cylinder container with a sufficient amount of ethanol solution using the anti-halogen layer up (emulsion side down) into the tray or into the cylinder.
- Keep the negatives in this solution for about 45 minutes and make a slight movement every 4-5 minutes.
- Wash the negative sheets under running tap water for 2-3 minutes.
- Perform standard drying, including previous application of wetting agent solution (FOTONAL).
Cheers.
Ricardo
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This is an excellent result Ricardo. I've not had the problem but to be safe I've checked my batch numbers and I'm ok. I hope you get chance to try the 200 version, I now prefer it and the general concensus is that is a much nicer film.
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The first time I I developed any Foma film I was somewhat surprised by VERY 'colourful' nature of the anti halation layer. That was Fomapan 400 in roll film, and my D76 came out 'electric purple' and tainted both the stop bath AND to a very small extent the fixer (that was after increasing my normal stop time to try and banish the purple meanie). I have since used Fomapan 100 extensively in 5x4 and have a box of 5x7 on order at the moment. I haven't had the dreaded 'purple rash' but I can certainly see from whence it comes!
I now pre wash before development to try and get rid of Prince's speciality (Purple Rain) before it rears it's purple head!
I should point out that before I started in large format I was entirely an Ilford man - but shifted to using Foma because when I taught photography at college I used to hammer into students 'if your photographs aren't good enough you aren't shooting enough film - because ultimately practise is the only thing that improves our work'. So the cost of Foma makes economic sense to me ... at least while I still count myself as a newbie at LF.
I now pre wash before development to try and get rid of Prince's speciality (Purple Rain) before it rears it's purple head!
I should point out that before I started in large format I was entirely an Ilford man - but shifted to using Foma because when I taught photography at college I used to hammer into students 'if your photographs aren't good enough you aren't shooting enough film - because ultimately practise is the only thing that improves our work'. So the cost of Foma makes economic sense to me ... at least while I still count myself as a newbie at LF.
Last edited:
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- Oct 17, 2018
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Try resouping the neg in alkaline solution AFTER you have completed the dev process.
Thats to say, dev, stop, fix, wash ( although a quick rinse will suffice to clear the majority of residue fixer), then soak the neg in a new solution of developer ( strength can be stronger than what you developed with).
Agitate gently and after a few mins , perhaps as long as 7 or 8 minutes you will hopefully see the magenta spots dissapear if they relate to a similar problem that i experienced with the anti halation layer.
My advice to you is basically a copy of what Foma themselves advised to me.
After the second souping in dev solution , simply wash like you would normally before drying the neg.
As the neg has already been fixed , you can do that additional stage in daylight .
Hopefully this will resolve your problem, if not then I can recommend contacting Foma directly .......They were very helpful!
EDIT: I see that RLeal mentions an anti halation layer issue too.
Thats to say, dev, stop, fix, wash ( although a quick rinse will suffice to clear the majority of residue fixer), then soak the neg in a new solution of developer ( strength can be stronger than what you developed with).
Agitate gently and after a few mins , perhaps as long as 7 or 8 minutes you will hopefully see the magenta spots dissapear if they relate to a similar problem that i experienced with the anti halation layer.
My advice to you is basically a copy of what Foma themselves advised to me.
After the second souping in dev solution , simply wash like you would normally before drying the neg.
As the neg has already been fixed , you can do that additional stage in daylight .
Hopefully this will resolve your problem, if not then I can recommend contacting Foma directly .......They were very helpful!
EDIT: I see that RLeal mentions an anti halation layer issue too.
That is great, certainly sounds like it is worth a try. Do you think a dilute ammonia solution would do the job, or would you recommend some other alkaline solution? Thanks.
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- Oct 17, 2018
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The batch of film that I had/ have the problem with ( I still have some sheets left ) is 8x10 Foma 100.
To be fair to Foma they sent me a replacement box of the same film even though the bad batch was still usable, just requiring additional processing to get a ´clean’ neg.
Tbh I’ve only used Hc-110 or ID11 to resolve the issue as I already have the stocks.
I suspect an ammonia solution would work fine although I’m no chemist so can’t say for sure if it will work and more importantly if it may induce archival problems ( perhaps specific film developers have certain ingredients to ensure long life of negatives !)
I’m sure others in here are much more knowledgeable than I to offer advice on that aspect.