Spotting Prints

Ian-Barber

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Ive spent most of the day experimenting with 5x4 contact prints with a bulb for the light source. I just about have exposure nailed down now but one thing I am noticing is small marks (could be dust/hairs) in the print which are obviously in the negative.

I am curious as to how many people suffer from this in their prints and how often you have to spot your prints.
 
Welcome to the world of the darkroom print. Everybody gets spots. Black spots are from dust in the camera and white ones in the enlarger, or in your case, on the neg, paper or cover glass while contact printing. Exhibition prints will always need some spotting because of the way they are inspected.
Good light, a fine brush and away you go. Spotting is a gentle occupation while listening to the Afternoon Play.
Do you see similar marks on a scan?
 
Spotting is a gentle occupation while listening to the Afternoon Play.
Do you see similar marks on a scan?

Yes, I do see the marks on a scan but they can be easily removed in a second with the spot healing tool.

Interesting point about the glass cover, I will investigate this
 
I have found that fibre-based paper is easier to spot.....but you didn't want to hear that!

Alan
 
I rarely need to do much spotting with contact prints. I use an electric anti-static dust brush unit and canned air to clean the negative and keep the contact frame meticulously clean. And, for whatever reason my 10x8 negs always seem to reveal less "problems" than smaller film. I actually have more spotting/clean-up work to do when enlarging.
 
Dust is certainly the enemy. It is uncommon to find spots on contact prints in my experience, and once upon a time, after a house move, it was all I had for some time. Enlarging certainly shows up any defects, but on the bright side, if your dust spots are perfectly sharp, the enlarger was perfectly focused.
 
Nearly impossible not to see retouching of spots and scratches on RC paper, black spots are a nightmare I dare you to remove one and retouch on RC paper) fibre based papers are much easier work with.
 
I second that. Even if it looks perfect head-on, a sideways glance will reveal all. Would you be using RC paper for exhibition work? I've never quite got the hang of knifing and I don't trust ferri, either
I was going to add a question about prints for reproduction, but I don't suppose anybody does that now.

So, the future is to buy an 00 sable brush for what seems like a pound a hair, find a spare white plate and practice.
I'm sure there are people here who can pass on some good advice on how to go about it.
 
I second that. Even if it looks perfect head-on, a sideways glance will reveal all. Would you be using RC paper for exhibition work? I've never quite got the hang of knifing and I don't trust ferri, either
I was going to add a question about prints for reproduction, but I don't suppose anybody does that now.

So, the future is to buy an 00 sable brush for what seems like a pound a hair, find a spare white plate and practice.
I'm sure there are people here who can pass on some good advice on how to go about it.

Dilute the dye - wipe the brush to almost dry and build up density gradually works for me

What would you do with Black marks on RC paper Andrew (I know, you dont get any;) ) but it does happen
 
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Yes, that's the usual way and it works perfectly (subject to dexterity) on fibre papers, but with resin-coated papers some sort of change in the surface is usually visible when scrutinised, where the dye is not absorbed into the emulsion. At least, that's what I've found. Others here may well have a better method.
The technique for lightening dark spots by knifing is almost impossible to do successfully on resin surfaces and the work-round is to bleach the spot to white (-ish) with ferri and then retouch it back to the required grey. Or, of course, colour.
 
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