Water Mill on dry plate

I have not tried dry plates yet but have the Stearman - I cannot imagine the plates shushing about , would they not just sit there?
A diy closed tray for daylight dev would be easier to make I would imagine as the plates won’t float or overlap
 
People used to have to do something to the base of the Paterson Orbital. One of them was tiny dots of Araldite, arranged in a neat pattern (more or less). Would that help the plate to ride above the vulnerable surface?
 
David M said:
People used to have to do something to the base of the Paterson Orbital. One of them was tiny dots of Araldite, arranged in a neat pattern (more or less). Would that help the plate to ride above the vulnerable surface?
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I was thinking of popping a scrap negative under the plate
 
The bottom of an Orbital is curved, so if you put a glass plate in there only the very corners/edges will be touching the unit at all.
 
there is nothing but glass on the back of plates right? They are heavy and don’t slide around unless you slosh the dev etc so hard that it comes out of the tray ? Here is the inside of my 810 , scrap sheets would protect it but might also allow plates to slide more easily . Oh new phone pics too big to post will try later
 
Scrap neg sounds a good idea and keeps the tank in its original state.
I wasn’t suggesting using a Paterson tank for glass plates. On that tank, some separation was needed because film would cling to the base and the anti-halation layer on the back wouldn’t be removed. It was also remarkably difficult to lift out a film, once it had stuck itself down.
The edges of glass plates are “as-cut” and not polished. Anyone who’s mended a window will know how very sharp the edges can be.
I seem to remember it’s quite hard to put a glass plate down perfectly flat, too.
 
Here is the textured base of the 810 , std procedure for film is to pre soak to get the sheets to sit down on the base - texture helps them not stick - it’s quite delicate so I can see why there is concern ref damage
 

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Marley's Ghost said:
Has anyone found a good solution for developing plates in a Stearman 10x8 tank without the sharp edges of the plate damaging the bottom of the tank? This is one of the things that's holding me up in ordering some plates ... the Stearman tank was expensive and I don't fancy borking it up. :)
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I haven't tried it yet but my plan is to use a junk sheet of 10x8 film on the bottom of the tank. If you don't have any you could try a sheet of photographic paper or OHP acetate.
 
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