Rocky Shore - Plougrescant

We can only put this down to the fact that the screen is calibrated to 80cd/m², which allowed us to set the black and white points so well
Not sure about this to be honest.

Usually you set the cd/m² value based on the brightness of the room, although 80cd/m² is no magic figure, anywhere between 80 - 110cd/m² is usually a good place to start on my opinion
 
Usually you set the cd/m² value based on the brightness of the room, although 80cd/m² is no magic figure, anywhere between 80 - 110cd/m² is usually a good place to start on my opinion

Ian, î do realise you have done all sorts of work around this subject and I don't want to denigrate, in any way, your findings.

But I come at this from a mainly computer background rather than a darkroom approach, which might explain why I think differently.

I can't remember exactly where I stumbled across the 80cd/m² value but, so far, all I can say is "it just works"

So, I got my light meter out and measured the light falling on a sheet of baryta paper, in incident mode, in the bright but cloudy daylight in our conservatory, where I evaluate prints. The result was 1/100sec @ f/3.0 100 ISO.

Then I took a spot reading in reflective mode of an empty browser window on my screen at 80cd/m² . The result was 1/100sec @f/2.4 100 ISO.

So, about ½ stop difference - possibly less if the faint sun hadn't peeped out.

And this is how I evaluate my prints - in diffuse daylight without direct sun, because these are the conditions under which the prints will be usually be hung.

So, in my experience over many years, 80cd/m² works very well, especially when you consider that most (non-professional) exhibition spaces are not as well illuminated as my conservatory.

I would be very interested to see what you find by doing a similar comparison of reflective from your screen with incident from in front of some paper in a "normal" viewing light.
 
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I would be very interested to see what you find by doing a similar comparison of reflective from your screen with incident from in front of some paper in a "normal" viewing light.

Light falling onto print Incident = 12 EV
Lighr reflecting from empty browser window = 11 1/3 EV
 
im currently at 110.
what do my figures tell you ?

That, somehow, you are satisfied with your monitor luminance of 110 and I am satisfied with my monitor luminance of 80.

Tell you what - you download and edit a greyscale image with your screen. Tell me which image you have downloaded and I will do the same. Then you export to a TIFF file (as if you were sending it to a printer), noting the grey value of each segment and send me a copy of that exported file to compare with my version.

Maybe you could split this part of this thread off to avoid too much distraction from Helen's original post?
 
That, somehow, you are satisfied with your monitor luminance of 110 and I am satisfied with my monitor luminance of 80.

Tell you what - you download and edit a greyscale image with your screen. Tell me which image you have downloaded and I will do the same. Then you export to a TIFF file (as if you were sending it to a printer), noting the grey value of each segment and send me a copy of that exported file to compare with my version.

Maybe you could split this part of this thread off to avoid too much distraction from Helen's original post?

You cant really do that, the images on the forum get compressed quite a bit and I have a gut feeling they also get the profile stripped from them.

The bottom line for me is to ensure you have the best monitor profile you can produce, be able to distinguish all the shades of grey from a step wedge and then be able reproduce as close as you can in the final print
 
You cant really do that, the images on the forum get compressed quite a bit and I have a gut feeling they also get the profile stripped from them.

The bottom line for me is to ensure you have the best monitor profile you can produce, be able to distinguish all the shades of grey from a step wedge and then be able reproduce as close as you can in the final print

My email box will handle quite large files, or you could send it via WeTransfer
 
One of Joanna’s posts seems to suggest that calibration will eventually save you money and probably pay for itself, by avoiding wasted ink and paper.

It may be heretical in this company, but I’ve found that for a non-technical person, and for black-and-white only, the simplest adjustment is to make a print, and then adjust the screen brightness to the closest match you can manage. This has the advantage of being easy to explain.
 
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One of Joanna’s posts seems to suggest that calibration will eventually save you money and probably pay for itself, by avoiding wasted ink and paper.

It may be heretical in this company, but I’ve found that for a non-technical person, and for black-and-white only, the simplest adjustment is to make a print, and then adjust the screen brightness to the closest match you can manage. This has the advantage of being easy to explain.
Shay's actually quite a good idea for non computer types like me.
 
What is it with the stupid auto-correct on this forum?
I typed "that's" and it changed it to "Shays"

Is there any way of disabling this junk?\

More to the point, what does Shays mean anyway?
 
What is it with the stupid auto-correct on this forum?
I typed "that's" and it changed it to "Shays"

Is there any way of disabling this junk?\

More to the point, what does Shays mean anyway?

It's not the forum, it's the "smart" auto-correct from your operating system, which can be turned off in the control panel. You can édit your message, even after posting it
 
What is it with the stupid auto-correct on this forum?
I typed "that's" and it changed it to "Shays"

Is there any way of disabling this junk?\

More to the point, what does Shays mean anyway?
SHAY(S)...US type logging locomotive...very impressive when on the move..lots of noise..very low speed...:D
1752657306680.png
 
Ok. I believe you.
But how is that a spelling correction?

It's just a random word that the stupid software could find.
 
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